The benefits of Mohair yarn mixes.

January 20, 2012 | Posted in Blog, Cloth | Leave a Comment   (0) | freshadmin
Semi bespoke mohair suit by Jasper Littman

Mid blue Escorial mohair fabric by Holland & Sherry

 

 

One of the problems associated with lightweight summer suits is that by its very nature the fineness of the fabric means it can be less durable and more susceptible to abrasion.

The best way to solve this problem is to weave mohair in with the usual wool fibres thereby adjusting the composition and consequently the performance of the fabric.

Mohair is one of the oldest textile fibres still in use today and it has many advantages; firstly it absorbs the dye better than wool resulting in richer colours, secondly it is tougher than wool and therefore less susceptible to abrasion, thirdly it has a natural built-in resilience so consequently it creases far less than a pure wool suit. It also stretches less meaning the suit keeps its shape better.

The mohair yarn used to make suits is not the same as the yarn that’s used to make mohair jumpers, it comes from the belly of kid goats.

Apart from all of these hidden characteristics mohair also has a slight sheen or lustre to it and that distinctive mohair look is enjoying a revival in the fashion arena at the moment.

Here are some examples of good quality mohair suitings:

Holland & Sherry Classic Mohairs – 75% Super 100’s wool, 25% mohair

Holland & Sherry Luxury Mohairs – 60% Summer kid mohair, 40% Super 120’s wool.

Harrison’s Cape Kid – 60% Summer kid mohair 40% Super 100’s wool.

 

 

 

Dinner Jackets and Tuxedos

January 20, 2012 | Posted in Suits | Leave a Comment   (0) | freshadmin

What is a Dinner Jacket and what is a Tuxedo? The two terms are used for the same type of Jacket, depending on which side of the Atlantic you come from, a Dinner Jacket is normally distinguished by having the lapels finished in satin and can either have a notched lapel or more traditionally would have been seen with shawl collars (without a notch). The origin of the Dinner Jacket was when the Prince of Wales wanted something less formal designed for him in 1860 by Savile row tailors Henry Poole & Co.

When visiting the Prince in 1886 Mr James Potter an American of Tuxedo Park New York had a Dinner Jacket made for him and took it back with him to his club, the Tuxedo club and the rest as they say is history…

In the past Dinner Jackets would have been single breasted with one button and no vents, having evolved from the tail coat the Dinner Jacket was designed to be less formal. It’s interesting to note that the Dinner Suit is now considered one of the most formal suits to wear. Current fashion has changed and Dinner Jackets are now seen with vents and additional buttons.